It’s rare for a dive watch to evolve without losing its identity. But Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms has always done things differently. Created in 1953 and widely recognized as the blueprint for every serious diver’s watch since, the Fifty Fathoms is more than a heritage piece — it’s an icon of technical innovation and design purity.

In 2025, Blancpain has given its most famous creation a whole new dimension. With the arrival of new 38mm references, the Fifty Fathoms Automatique is now offered in three sizes: 38mm, 42mm and 45mm. This is not just a question of scale, but of philosophy. The Fifty Fathoms has always been about making serious watchmaking fit for real-world adventure. Now, it also fits more wrists.

The dive watch that started it all

When Blancpain introduced the Fifty Fathoms over 70 years ago, diving was still an activity shrouded in mystery and danger. The early adopters were explorers, combat swimmers and oceanographers. One of them was Jean-Jacques Fiechter, then Blancpain’s CEO and an early enthusiast of underwater diving. Frustrated by the lack of suitable wristwatches for underwater use, he set about designing one himself — and the Fifty Fathoms was the result.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique Ref. 5007 in steel with blue sunburst dial. (Image: Revolution ©)

The 1953 original introduced almost every feature we now take for granted in a professional dive watch: a unidirectional rotating bezel, bold luminous markers, a sealed automatic movement for ease of use underwater, and anti-magnetic protection. With a depth rating of 50 fathoms (around 91.5 meters, very impressive at the time), it was a technical marvel. And its legacy lives on.

Today, Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms continues to lead the field, not just by drawing on its past, but by embracing modern materials, manufacturing, and mechanical watchmaking at its most refined.

Small case, big impact: The 38mm Fifty Fathoms

The newest addition to the collection is the 38mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique. Offered in five distinct references — two featuring iridescent mother-of-pearl dials and three in more classic colors — this is more than just a scaled-down version. The case has been entirely reworked to preserve the visual balance and technical prowess of the Fifty Fathoms in a more compact format.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique Ref. 5007 in 38mm (right) versus 45mm (left). (Image: Revolution ©)

Fifty Fathoms Automatique is also crafted in 18K red gold with a graduated black mother-of-pearl dial

For those after something quietly classic, there’s a polished stainless-steel case with a black sunburst dial and bezel — a nod to the spirit of the original 1953 design. Or a satin-brushed grade-23 titanium version, paired with a deep blue dial and matching bezel, which combines everyday wearability with a crisp, modern aesthetic.

The third model in this classic trio is perhaps the most striking: a red gold case with a sunburst blue dial that radiates warmth and sophistication. Each is powered by Blancpain’s in-house calibre 1150, offering a 100-hour power reserve and a silicon balance spring for magnetic resistance and stability.

Fifty Fathoms Automatique in tonal pink and white, with a complementary pink mother-of-pearl dial with a titanium case. (Image: Revolution ©)

Then there are the mother-of-pearl models. One features a smoky black dégradé dial in red gold; the other shimmers in petal pink, housed in brushed titanium. Powered by calibre 1153 (a close sibling of the 1150), these watches add a bold new character to the Fifty Fathoms line — emotionally expressive, unapologetically elegant, and a clear tribute to Blancpain’s female collectors and its Ocean Commitment program. These aren’t limited editions, but they do feel special — not least thanks to their 300 meter depth-rated cases, domed sapphire bezels, and beautifully textured straps.

A family of three: 38mm, 42mm and 45mm references

Alongside the new 38mm models, Blancpain has added to its mid-sized 42mm line with a handsome new reference in polished stainless steel. Previously available only in titanium or red gold, this new model channels the spirit of the Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary “Act 1” piece released in 2023, now updated as a permanent addition to the core collection.

Its black sunburst dial and matching domed sapphire bezel are pure Fifty Fathoms DNA, while the polished steel case adds a rich visual pop, catching the light with every movement of the wrist. Inside beats Blancpain’s calibre 1315, a movement originally launched in 2007 and still one of the most respected in modern watchmaking. It offers a class-leading five-day power reserve, made possible by three series-coupled barrels, and is equipped with a silicon balance spring for magnetic resistance. Flip the watch over and the sapphire crystal caseback reveals meticulous finishing, including a gold rotor with a dark NAC (Nickel Anthracite Coating) treatment that echoes the design of the original 1953 oscillating weight.

And let’s not forget the full-sized 45 mm Fifty Fathoms, the original flagship of the modern collection. Big, bold, and unashamedly technical, it remains a favorite for purists and professional divers alike. With the full trio — 38 mm, 42 mm, and 45 mm — Blancpain now offers the Fifty Fathoms experience in a complete, coherent range. No longer defined by wrist size or gender, this is a collection for everyone who appreciates fine mechanical watchmaking with serious dive-watch credibility.

The Ocean Commitment

The Fifty Fathoms line is also defined by its sense of purpose. Since 2003, Blancpain has supported over 20 major oceanographic expeditions and co-founded projects such as the Blancpain Ocean Commitment, the Ocean Photographer of the Year competition, and the Female Fifty Fathoms Award. The new 38 mm mother-of-pearl editions are a natural extension of that work — not just because they’re inspired by the ocean’s colors and textures, but because they recognize and celebrate the women pushing marine exploration forward.

Fifty Fathoms Automatique Ref. 5007 on a black tropic rubber strap

As Marc A. Hayek, Blancpain’s President and CEO, puts it: “The Fifty Fathoms is much more than a diver’s watch. It’s a symbol of exploration and innovation.”

That philosophy runs through everything Blancpain does. From its mechanical movements — all developed and assembled in-house — to its commitment to sustainability and marine preservation, this is a brand that lives its values.

Blancpain: The pioneer’s watchmaker

Founded in 1735, Blancpain holds the distinction of being the world’s oldest watchmaking brand. But it has never rested on tradition alone. In the 1950s, it helped create the modern sports watch. In the 1980s, while many others embraced quartz, it doubled down on high-end mechanical watchmaking. And in the 21st century, it continues to lead, combining innovation with craftsmanship, performance with poetry.

Recent highlights include the Air Command flyback chronograph, the refined Villeret collection with traditional complications, and the stunning Métiers d’Art pieces that showcase enamel painting, engraving, and decorative arts.

But it’s the Fifty Fathoms that remains the soul of the brand — a watch born from function, honed by experience, and refined by time.

With the launch of the 38mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique, Blancpain hasn’t just added another reference — it’s broadened the appeal of its most important collection. Whether you’re drawn to the retro-chic polish of the 42mm model, the bold charisma of the 45mm diver, or the wearable versatility and expressive colors of the 38mm range, there’s now a Fifty Fathoms that fits everyone.