When Willy Breitling introduced the Premier line in the 1940s, it was with the understanding that a wristwatch was more than an aviator’s technical tool. Chronographs that measured elapsed seconds of time with his signature formidable precision had made Breitling’s reputation, but he understood that there was something fundamental about the appeal of a watch that went beyond its ability to simply do the job it was created for.

He introduced the Premier Fantaisies models in the 1940s — chic chronographs designed specifically with women in mind. Willy Breitling’s wife, Beatrice, became a muse and creative force. Wristwatches at the time were becoming a conduit for something else — an opportunity for personal style and expression. In a society emerging from the throes of war, Breitling had “got it” and created products that reflected the aspirations of his customers to assert their individuality after years of deprivation.

Lady Premier SuperQuartz 32mm includes an Ink Blue dial on a full steel bracelet, complemented with lab-grown diamonds (Image: Revolution ©)

The duality of a women’s wristwatch as both a tool and a jewel sits as comfortably at Breitling now as it did then. Fast-forward 80 years and Breitling introduces its Lady Premier, a collection designed, conceptualized and brought into existence to speak directly to the female client. As Breitling CEO George Kern said, the new collection is “confident, feminine, and full of character, just like the woman who wears it.” There isn’t a “male version” that this is derived from as sometimes happens in watchmaking, making the release especially notable for women’s watchmaking.

The Lady Premier launch introduces seven watches across two models: a 32mm and a 36mm.

Lady Premier SuperQuartz 32

The 32mm collection of SuperQuartz models has three variations of dials, each presented in a stainless steel watch: mother-of-pearl, Ink Blue, or Midnight Black. Each watch boasts a chevron-style bracelet with a V shaped construction that conveys that ‘tool and jewel’ duality – elegant and above all functionally flawless. Underscoring its impeccable credentials, inside beats the COSC-certified Caliber 77, a thermos-compensated SuperQuartz™ movement that boasts uncompromising accuracy.

Lady Premier Automatic 36

The 36 mm Automatic model, powered by the COSC-certified Caliber 10 with a 42-hour power reserve, comes in a selection of three stainless steel models, each with a matching dial and alligator strap colourway: sage, dove grey or aubergine. A fourth has been created in warm 18k gold and choc-brown dial and strap. There are diamonds from lug to bezel on two of the versions (sage or grey) and each dial has been finished using three finishing styles to maximise the play of light as the watch wearer’s wrist moves and the dial catches the light.

Lady Premier Automatic 36 in Aubergine and Chocolate dials (Image: Revolution ©)

(Image: Revolution ©)

(Image: Revolution ©)

On both the 32mm and the 36mm, the dial design boasts minimalist numerals, lozenge hands, and sculptural crowns. The design vocabulary is new: elliptical cases, cascading diamonds along lugs and bezels, ombré alligator straps, and silky, pared-back dial architecture.

The watches feel consciously contemporary in this regard: the design language and aesthetic is rooted in the here and now; modern watches for modern women. IN fact the only thing really that nods clearly to the past is the name. The 1980s saw Lady J and Wings Lady collections launched by Breitling. In essence though, this is a purpose-built collection that doesn’t recreate past models or styles (as Breitling has done exceptionally well over the years with other collections).

Breitling and women

Willy himself once remarked: “When a woman puts on her watch, her whole personality is magically transformed.”  The Lady Premier collection reflects Breitling’s renewed assertion to women as pivotal to its identity; from Beatrice Breitling’s influence to iconic cinematic moment such as Raquel Welch in Fathom (1967) strapping on a Breitling as she outwitted spies and seduced audiences with ease.  If the original Premier line took the chronograph and made it into an elegant object and opportunity for self-expression, then the Lady Premier celebrates this opportunity even further.  Nothing about it feels like a mini version of a man’s watch: Lady Premier is clearly purpose-built. Breitling’s CEO, Georges Kern says: “Lady Premier is a new take on the elegant watch that’s confident, feminine, and full of character” and this focus on confidence is expressed also in the campaign, fronted by Meghan Roche, Shahed Elnakhlawy, and Mason Barnes. In many ways, the Lady Premier is also an embodiment of Breitling’s modern ethos: casual luxury, inclusivity, and sustainability. The collection uses responsibly sourced gold and traceable lab-grown diamonds — aligning heritage with the values and priorities of its next generation of wearers, exactly like Willy did when he launched the Premier back in 1943.

Tech Specs: Breitling Lady Premier Automatic 36

Reference: A10310211Q1P1, A10310671L1P1, A10310671M1P1, R10310121Q1P1
Movement: Self-winding COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 10; 42-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; central seconds
Case: 36mm × 9.9mm; stainless steel (option with lab-grown diamonds) / 18K gold; water-resistant to 100 m
Dial: Gradient Aubergine, Sage, Dove Grey, or Chocolate
Strap: Gradient ombré alligator straps with folding clasp

Tech Specs: Breitling Lady Premier Superquartz™️ 32

Reference: A77330121A2A1, A77330671C1A1, A77330671B1A1
Movement: Breitling COSC-certified Caliber 77 SuperQuartz™️
Case: 32mm × 8.9mm; stainless steel (option with lab-grown diamonds); water resistant to 100m
Dial: Mother-of-pearl, Ink Blue, or Midnight Black
Strap: Seven-row Chevron stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp