Back when the BR-05 first launched in 2019, it was more than just another entry into the integrated bracelet category. It was a celebration of shape. In other words, the BR-05 represented Bell & Ross’s evolution of their cockpit-instrument DNA. Its design, a circle within a square, softened at the corners and reinforced with a substantial sandwich-style case construction. Now at 36mm, it keeps all of that DNA intact, but in a leaner, more wearable form.

And if you’re wondering why perfect circles or perfect squares haven’t quite worked for integrated lugs, just look around. The BR-05 has joined the bandwagon of classic yet dressy steel sports watches, having found its equilibrium by refining both forms and fusing them together, retaining its distinct sandwich construction.

Why is Bell & Ross going smaller with the BR-05?

Because size still matters — just in the opposite direction. The refined 36mm version of the BR-05 brought for Bell & Ross a new sense of architectural solidity to the integrated bracelet trend. As brands ride out the post-Genta-inspired wave of steel sport-chic watches, Bell & Ross takes a bold but calculated turn by going smaller. Yet to which, Bruno Belamich, Creative Director and Co-Founder, claims it isn’t just a mini version of its predecessors. The BR-05 36mm demanded a complete redesign of all components, from the case and bezel to the bracelet, to retain the strong geometry and architectural harmony the collection is known for.

BR-05 36mm Black Steel (left) and Grey Sunray (right) (Image: Revolution ©)

(Image: Revolution ©)

“First and foremost, it’s important to note that the BR-05 collection has offered various dimensions for several years,” explained Belamich. “Launched in 40 mm in 2019, the watch has always evolved, adopting larger sizes for complications: 41mm for GMTs and 42mm for chronographs.

“Another key motivation was to make this collection more accessible to women,” he added. The new 36mm BR-05 has a new strap integration system that hugs the wrist better and uses refined proportions across the board. Even the caseback has been reimagined for comfort, with a solid back that sits flush against the wrist. 

The BR-05 line features a complex assembly, with an upper section attached to the case and sealed hermetically by four distinctive screws (Image: Revolution ©)

The case profile has been shaved down to 8.5mm in thickness, with the 40mm model at 10.33mm

BR-05 36mm in an ice-blue dial with sunray finish (Image: Revolution ©)

The dial itself remains instantly legible, thanks to large Arabic numerals and high-contrast indexes filled with white Super-LumiNova. It also skips the date window, keeping the smaller dial clean and minimal. Sometimes, less is really more.

At this fun size, the BR-05 is available in a spectrum of finishes: classic black, sleek monochrome silver, a stylish ice blue, and a surprising standout — mother-of-pearl. The latter, often relegated to daintier pieces, brings a whole new dimension to the steel BR-05. The undulated pattern gives this sporty piece an unexpected softness and shimmer. It may lean feminine, but this alternative is a great update to an otherwise stark white dial that wouldn’t really have anything else going for it. 

BR-05 36mm in mother-of-pearl (Image: Revolution ©)

No exhibitions here: The BR-05 36mm is powered by the self-winding BR-CAL.329 caliber, based on the reliable Sellita architecture (Image: Revolution ©)

Once the preserve of brawny tool watches and statement sports pieces, oversized wristwear is quietly being sidelined in favor of more proportionate, considered designs. As we speak, a growing number of collectors are embracing the return of the sub-40mm case. As one commentator wryly put it, “watches don’t need to shout anymore, they just need to fit.” 

Tech Specs: Bell & Ross BR-05 36mm

Reference: BR05A-S-BL-ST/SST; BR05A-S-MP-ST/SST; BR05A-S-GR-ST/SST; BR05A-S-BU-ST/SST
Movement: Self-winding BR-CAL.329; 54-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; central seconds
Case: 36mm × 8.5mm; stainless steel; water-resistant to 100m
Dial: Sunray black / gray sunray / sunray ice blue / grade A mother-of-pearl
Strap: Integrated stainless steel with folding buckle
Price: USD 4,300 / EU 4,500