Cartier is one of the blue-chip brands of Watches & Wonders, and not just because of the sheer scale of their watchmaking business. No Cartier, as befits the brand responsible for the first commercially produced wristwatch, has a vast and enviable history of watch designs to draw from, combined with jewellery skills as good as any in the business. Cartier’s 2025 releases at Watches & Wonders demonstrate how the Maison is capable of seamlessly utilising both these skill sets to create some transformative timepieces.

Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets

Without a doubt, the most hotly anticipated Cartier release every year is the Cartier Privé release. In recent years, the Maison has set a high bar with the Tonneau, the Tortue, the Normale and more, so just quietly, the pressure was on. Thankfully, the freshly announced Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets very much lives up to the lineage of almighty Privé releases.

Inspired by a design dating from 1928, and made famous thanks to Jazz maestro Duke Ellington, the Tank à Guichets is one of the leading examples of that most charming anachronism — a mechanical digital watch. Cartier’s ingenious design is achieved thanks to the use of a jumping hour display and a dragging minute marker, all hidden behind a solid facade, allowing — as with all digital time displays — near instantaneous legibility. And now, nearly 80 years after the debut of the Tank à Guichets, the model is making a triumphant return. As with all Privé releases, the new version does an exceptional job of walking the line between faithful revival of a much-loved design, updated where it matters.

For starters, we’re treated to four distinct takes on the Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets, in two designs. No matter which version you prefer, they’re all 37.6mm tall and 24.8mm wide, with a height of 6mm. With a case that is still clearly identifiable as a Tank, despite the lack of the familiar curves and brancard detailing we’re so used to. Also shared across the board is the manually wound 9755 MC, made specifically for this model, with jumping hours and dragging minutes.

Three versions, in yellow gold, rose gold and platinum borrow the layout that is familiar from the 1928 design, with a square jump hour aperture where 12 o’clock would be on a regular dial, while the gentle curve of the minutes display sits below at the bottom of the dial.

The final version, limited to 200 pieces, flips the script a little. The time display isn’t aligned on a vetical access, instead it’s rotated 90 degrees, creating an innovative geometric design that is remarkbaly appealing in its intention. Across the line, the crown is neatly recessed at the 12 position, and the golden ‘face’ of the watch is finely and smoothly brushed, an elevated industrial finish that is truly remarkable amongst Cartier’s creations.

Tech Specs: Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets

Movement: Manual-winding movement, 9755 MC
Functions: Jump hours and dragging minutes
Case: 37.6mm × 24.8mm × 6mm; platinum, yellow or rose gold
Strap: Alligator leather in black, green, grey or burgundy
Availability: 1930s-styled platinum model limited to 200 pieces

Cartier Tank Louis Cartier

For many, the Cartier Tank is the definitive wristwatch — certainly, it leads the way when it comes to its unique pairing of elegance and longevity. Of all the Tanks throughout history, the Tank Louis Cartier (as the 1922 design has come to be known) represents the best of the best when it comes to the refinement of the Tank. Barely changed in over a century, the Tank LC (as it is often known), has an elongated case, refined brancards and curvier lines throughout — a slight softening of the fundamental rectangle that defines the Tank.

Cartier Tank Louis Cartier

As of today this definitive dress watch is now available in a larger version, in both rose and yellow gold — both powered by the modern automatic 1899 MC movement. The new case dimensions are 38.1mm from lug-to-lug and 27.75mm across, with a thickness of 8.18mm. Aside from the case dimensions, everything else is pure Cartier, the Roman numerals, Flinque dial and blued-sword-shape hands.

Tech Specs: Cartier Tank Louis Cartier Watch

Movement: Automatic-winding 1899 MC
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: 38.1mm × 27.75mm × 8.18mm; yellow or rose gold; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: Flinqué dial, blued-steel sword-shaped hands
Strap: Gray or brown semi-matte alligator leather

Cartier Tressage

In 2023 Cartier debuted a new jewellery collection, defined by transformative shapes, dynamic tension and fluid-like structures. That collection was called Tressage. Now, following other jewellery-like timekeeping pieces like Maillon, Coussin and Reflection, Tressage is the latest precious addition to the Maison’s timekeeping catalogue.

Cartier Tressage Collection

The Tressage watch is offered in four variants, with the most simple being a yellow gold and black number, gearing up to more heavily stone-set pieces, with the apex member of the family being a white gold model with 530 brilliant-cut diamonds and 330 sapphires. Design-wise, the Tressage offers an almost cufflike tonneau shape, where the leather strap and small central dial play second and third fiddle to the twisted gadroons. About this new design, Marie-Laure Cérède, Creative Director of Jewellery and Watchmaking, says: “Through these creations, where the round contrasts with the line, the smooth with the fine relief of the pavé, Cartier honours the legacy of Jeanne Toussaint, the first female creative director at Cartier, appointed in 1933. In her footsteps, the material unfolds into infinite effects and brilliance.”

Cérède continues, “If Tressage is the perfect illustration of Cartier’s jewellery expertise in watchmaking, it is not simply a piece of jewellery that tells the time. For this creation, we exaggerated and amplified the classic attributes of a watch. By enlarging and elongating the brancards, we sculpted a voluptuous twist in volume. Neither a bangle nor a leather strap, Tressage continues to explore that unique and atypical territory so dear to Cartier — watches of a third kind, a true fusion of watchmaking and jewellery.” To us it’s simply another example of watchmaking that only Cartier is capable of.

Tech Specs: Cartier Tressage Watch

Movement: Quartz
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: 56.2mm × 25.7mm × 11.5mm; yellow or white gold and various gem-set versions
Dial: Black or pavé diamond
Strap: Calfskin in various colours

Cartier Panthère

Keeping with the jewellery theme, this year, we also get some gem-set extensions to one of last year’s more slept-on Cartier releases, the larger Panthère with a bracelet. Only this time around, it’s gem set. The core of this extension is four watches with fully set bracelets and gem-set bezels. Two in yellow gold and two in rose gold, in smaller and larger models. The showstopper, though, is just that, a showstopper. Seamlessly blending design motifs inspired by Cartier’s signature panther, as well as a dial inspired by the striping of the zebra, this remarkable watch is a true work of the jeweller’s art. It is a work of graphic magic, a transformative design that combines colour and stone to create something truly remarkable. Black and golden brown lacquer contrast the gold of the case and form the basis of the design. Pavé diamonds and orange and yellow spessartites provide the high drama. There are 145 snow-set stones on the dial and a further 314 diamonds on the case, along with 86 spessartites. As an object, it’s incredible, but it’s also an interesting (and necessary) evolution of the rainbow motif that has so dominated gem-set watch design over the last half-decade.

Cartier Panthère de Cartier in Rose Gold

Cartier Panthère de Cartier in Yellow Gold

Cartier Panthère de Cartier in Rose Gold

Tech Specs: Cartier Panthère de Cartier Rose Gold

Movement: Quartz
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: 36.5mm × 26.7mm × 6.8mm; rose gold, stone set and lacquer
Dial: Zebra pattern, lacquer and diamond pavé
Strap: Rose gold, lacquer and stone set

Tech Specs: Cartier Panthère de Cartier in Rose and Yellow Gold

Movement: Quartz
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: 36.5mm × 26.7mm × 6.8mm or 30.3mm × 22mm × 6.05mm; yellow or rose gold; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: Silver
Strap: Yellow or rose gold, set with brilliant-cut diamonds

Panthère Bangle

Another highly decorated example of the Maison’s most famous big cat is the Cartier Panthère Bangle. Described by the brand as a piece of hybrid architecture, the Cartier Panthère Bangle literally shows two sides of the Maison’s expertise in a a single object. One half of the bangle is a panther, mid-pounce, realised in yellow gold and lacquer, or white gold, lacquer and diamonds. The other terminal of this bangle is a minimalist watch face, a layout with which those who recall the Reflection de Cartier will be immediately familiar.

Cartier Panthère Bangle in White Gold

Cartier Panthère Bangle in Yellow Gold

Tech Specs: Cartier Panthère Bangle in Yellow and White Gold

Movement: Quartz
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: Wrist size in 150mm, 160mm or 170mm; yellow or white gold; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: Black or pavé
Strap: Yellow gold set with 23 diamonds; white gold set with 1103 diamonds