It’s not an easy task to distil a history as long and a technical repertoire as rich as Vacheron Constantin into a single thread. In recent years, the revival of the 222 and the continued development of the Overseas have been the centre of attention. But as the company approached its 270th anniversary, its centre of gravity began to shift to the foundation of its legitimacy as a manufacture.

Vacheron Constantin has a long history as a maker of highly complicated watches and continues to redefine complicated watchmaking well into its third century. The Berkley, the world’s most complicated watch with 63 complications, was a breathtaking accomplishment not just in its sheer scope, but in how it managed to encode the cycles of the Chinese lunisolar calendar into a perpetual calendar. At Watches & Wonders this year, the maison followed up with the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Complication which becomes the world’s most complicated wristwatch with a total of 43 complications.

But beyond the numbers, what sets it apart is its extraordinary contemplation of the heavens above, specifically its dedication to charting the apparent course of the Sun across the sky; its position, height, culmination, declination and the times of sunrise and sunset. Moreover, it debuts a world first: a split-seconds chronograph which can be used in conjunction with a star chart, allowing the wearer to calculate when a selected star or constellation will appear in the sky.

Apart from the one-off masterpiece destined for a single well-heeled individual, Vacheron Constantin has also unveiled a considered series of anniversary limited editions.

Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar

The big news is perhaps the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, which brings together a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar in a slim, elegant package. The last time the two complications met in a Vacheron Constantin watch, it was in the Saint-Gervais, a behemoth of a timepiece measuring 44mm by 14.6mm. It had a manual winding movement, and its considerable thickness was due to the use of four barrels, which delivered a power reserve of 250 hours.

Limited to 127 pieces, the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, by contrast, measures 42mm in diameter and just 11.1mm thick, as it is based on the ultra-thin, self-winding Calibre 2160. The movement features a peripheral rotor winding system, which remains a relative rarity in modern watchmaking. In addition to its technical merits, the peripheral rotor also clears the visual field and allows for an unobstructed view of the finely finished movement. To reduce thickness further, the tourbillon is driven by a wheel on its periphery rather than a pinion beneath the cage. With the addition of the perpetual calendar module, the Calibre 2162 QP remains impressively slim at 6.55 mm thick, compared to 5.65 mm for the base calibre. The calendar relies on a 12-month program wheel with a Maltese cross satellite to manage the month of February. In all, it represents classic complicated watchmaking at its best.

The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is cased in platinum, while the dial is solid gold which has been engine-turned with a complex geometric motif specially developed for the anniversary. Additionally, the movement bridges have been decorated with a more intricate variation of striping that Vacheron refers to as ‘côte unique’. It is a traditional technique used by Vacheron more than a century ago and was rediscovered in 2021. Unlike conventional Geneva stripes, these are thinner, subtly curved. As such, achieving a seamless and continuous line across three bridges in this instance requires exceptional skill and a high degree of coordination between tool and touch.

This is a watch that speaks as much to cultural legacy as to horological craft — a reflection of continuity, and of the effort to preserve and cultivate the methods and values that have sustained Vacheron for over a quarter of a millennium.

Tech Specs: Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar

Reference: 6300/000P-H056
Movement: Self-winding Calibre 2162 QP/270; 72 hours power reserve, 2.5Hz or 18,000vph
Functions: Hours and minutes; tourbillon; perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, month, leap-year indication)
Case: 42mm × 11.1mm; 950 platinum; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: 18K gold hand guilloché, silver-toned, with 270th anniversary motif
Strap: Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather lining, hand-stitched, large square scales
Availability: 127 pieces

A Trio of Platinum Traditionnelle Openface Limited Editions

Among the more distinctive releases from Vacheron Constantin is a trio of models that revisit traditional calendar complications through the lens of openworking. These are not skeleton watches in the usual sense, but rather timepieces that invite the wearer to look into the mechanism, rather than through it. The approach is particularly well suited to dial-side complications, where openworking is not merely decorative, but functional, revealing mechanisms that are typically hidden and placing the emphasis, quite literally, on how the watch works.

All three watches are in platinum with partially openworked solid gold dials that have been engraved with the same asymmetrical Maltese cross motif. Unlike traditional motifs such as barleycorn or basketweave, this asymmetrical pattern adds a layer of complexity, both in design and in execution, demanding tenth-of-a-millimeter precision from the guillocheur. The dials are further complicated by the integration of sapphire parts, which are not applied above, but precisely inset into the dial itself. This requires careful milling of the gold to define separate zones for both the engraved motif and the transparent sections. As with the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, the movements of the three watches have their bridges decorated with a ‘côte unique’ finish.

The Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface is one of the very few examples of the complication made by a great Swiss watchmaking house, and it’s a more expressive take on a traditional display that speaks to the brand’s comfort in balancing classic watchmaking with modern presentation. While the standard model, with its slate grey dial and anthracite-treated bridges, has a moodier, more contemporary character, the anniversary edition, with its silvered dial and lighter movement finish, feels strikingly fresh and more refined.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface (©Revolution)

Equipped with the Calibre 2460 QCL/270, the openworked dial reveals part of the 312-component self-winding mechanism. Image: Revolution ©

Image: Revolution ©

The platinum case measures 5.45 mm thick. Image: Revolution ©

Tech Specs: Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface

Reference: 4020T/000P-H038
Movement: Self-winding Calibre 2460 QCL/270; 40 hours power reserve, 4Hz or 28,800vph
Functions: Hours; minutes; complete calendar with day, date, month and moon-phase display
Case: 41mm × 11.05mm; 950 platinum; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: Hand-guilloché white gold with a 270th anniversary motif inspired by the Maltese cross
Strap: Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather lining, hand-stitched, large square scales
Availability: 370 pieces

Notably, Vacheron Constantin has now introduced a full-fledged perpetual calendar in the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface. Owing to the retrograde date display, the architecture of the perpetual calendar mechanism is unusual; it doesn’t rely on a grand lever. At its center is a large ratchet-style wheel that controls the retrograde date and also drives the month star. At the same time, there is a finger beneath the ratchet wheel that samples the 12-month cam. It makes for one of the few perpetual calendars that offers a rare glimpse into a mechanism that breaks from convention. Like the Complete Calendar, it is built on the automatic Calibre 2460, itself derived from the Calibre 2450, which is Vacheron Constantin’s first in-house automatic movement, introduced in 2007.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface

Tech Specs: Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface

Reference: 4030T/000P-H054
Movement: Self-winding Calibre 2460 QPR31/270; 40 hours power reserve, 4Hz or 28,800vph
Functions: Hours, minutes; perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, month, leap-year indication and retrograde date); moon phase
Case: 41mm × 10.94mm; 950 platinum; water resistant to 30m
Dial: Hand-guilloché white gold with a 270th anniversary motif inspired by the Maltese cross
Strap: Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather lining, hand-stitched, large square scales
Availability: 370 pieces

Finally, there is the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface. It is powered the Calibre 2162 R31/270 which is based on the slim tourbillon Calibre 2160 with a peripheral winding system and a Magic Lever. All three models are limited to 370 pieces each.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface

Tech Specs: Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface

Reference: 6010T/000P-H055
Movement: Self-winding Calibre 2162 R31/270; 72 hours power reserve, 2.5Hz or 18,000vph
Functions: Hours, minutes, tourbillon; retrograde date
Case: 41mm × 11.07mm; 950 platinum; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: Hand-guilloché white gold with a 270th anniversary motif inspired by the Maltese cross
Strap: Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather lining, hand-stitched, large square scales
Availability: 370 pieces

Foundational Traditionnelle & Patrimony Models

Apart from the more complex watches, Vacheron Constantin has also unveiled elevated takes on its foundational models across both Traditionnelle and the newly revamped Patrimony collections. The most compelling of the lot is perhaps the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding, which is, as it is, one of the best dress watches in production from a grand maison. It measures 38mm by 7.77mm and is offered in both platinum and pink gold, limited to 370 pieces each. The dials have been decorated with the same geometric motif and the movements, with the ‘côte unique’ finish and an anniversary engraving.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding. Image: Revolution ©

Tech Specs: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding

Reference: 82172/000P-H062 and 82172/000R-H118
Movement: Manual winding Calibre 4400 AS/270; 65 hours power reserve, 4Hz or 28,800vph
Functions: Hours, minutes and small seconds
Case: 38 mm × 7.77mm; 950 platinum and 18k 5N pink gold; water resistant to 30m
Dial: Silver-toned, 270th anniversary decor inspired by the Maltese cross
Strap: Grey Mississippiensis alligator leather, tone-on-tone stitching, square scales
Availability: 370 pieces each

Also being introduced are two diamond-set models in pink gold, both featuring mother-of-pearl dials. The first is the Traditionnelle Moon Phase in a 36mm case, and the second is the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding, offered in a more compact 33mm size. Both are limited to 270 pieces each.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Moon Phase

Traditionnelle Manual-Winding in 33 mm diamond-set pink gold case

Tech Specs: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Moon Phase

Reference: 83570/000R-H060
Movement: Manual winding Calibre 1410 AS/270; 38 hours power reserve, 4Hz or 28,800vph
Functions: Hours, minutes and small seconds; moon phase; power reserve indicator
Case: 36mm × 8.9mm; 18K 5N pink gold set with 80 round-cut diamonds; Crown set with 1 round-cut diamond; water resistant to 30m
Total gem-setting: 81 diamonds totalling approx. 1.28 carats (minimum guaranteed)
Dial: Mother-of-pearl with 270th anniversary decor inspired by the Maltese cross
Strap: Pink Mississippiensis alligator leather, with calfskin lining, stitched tip, square scales
Availability: 270 pieces

Tech Specs: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding

Reference: 1405T/000R-H061
Movement: Manual winding Calibre 1440 /270; 42 hours power reserve, 4Hz or 28,800vph
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: 33mm × 7.7mm; 18K 5N pink gold; bezel set with 54 round-cut diamonds; water resistant to 30m
Total gem-setting: 54 diamonds totalling approx. 0.87 carats (minimum guaranteed)
Dial: Mother-of-pearl with 270th anniversary decor inspired by the Maltese cross
Strap: Pink Mississippiensis alligator leather, with calfskin lining, stitched tip, square scales
Availability: 270 pieces

Lastly, there are two Patrimony models – the Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date and Patrimony Self-Winding – both offered in white and pink gold, limited to 370 pieces per reference.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date. Image: Revolution ©

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding. Image: Revolution ©

Tech Specs: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date

Reference: 4010U/000G-H057 and 4010U/000R-H117
Movement: Self-winding Calibre 2460 R31L/270; 40 hours power reserve, 4Hz or 28,800vph
Functions: Hours and minutes; retrograde date; moon phase, age of the moon
Case: 42.5mm × 9.7mm; 18K white gold and 18K 5N pink gold; water resistant to 30m
Dial: Silver-toned, 270th anniversary decor inspired by the Maltese cross
Strap: Dark green Mississippiensis alligator leather, tone-on-tone stitching, square scales
Availability: 270 pieces each

Tech Specs: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding

Reference: 85180/000G-H035 and 85180/000R-H116
Movement: Self-winding Calibre 2450 Q6/270; 40 hours power reserve, 4Hz or 28,800vph
Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds; Date
Case: 40mm × 8.65mm; 18K white gold and 18K 5N pink gold; water resistant to 30m
Dial: Silver-toned, 270th anniversary decor inspired by the Maltese cross
Strap: Dark green Mississippiensis alligator leather, tone-on-tone stitching, square scales
Availability: 370 pieces each

Les Cabinotiers Tribute to the Tour de l’Ile

The anniversary celebration certainly wouldn’t feel complete without the work of Les Cabinotiers, where a wide range of decorative crafts are practiced at its most deliberate and demanding level. There are three single-piece editions being launched. These are time-only models that measure 40mm wide and 9.42mm thick and come with officer-style case backs. Each features a dial depicting the Tour de l’Île, inspired by a historical lithograph and reinterpreted by Vacheron Constantin’s designers. The tower once housed Vacheron Constantin’s workshops in the mid-19th century, giving the company a presence at the heart of Geneva, both literally and symbolically, beneath one of the city’s most visible public clocks.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Tribute to the Tour de l’Ile

Engraved inside the officer-style case back of each watch is Geneva’s motto: “Post Tenebras Lux” (After Darkness, Light), which expresses the idea that even in the darkest time there is the possibility of a brighter future and is a powerful symbol of Geneva’s commitment to freedom, independence and progress

The first model is in platinum and features a miniature Grand Feu enamel painted dial in pastel shades. The work for this dial spanned an entire month. It began with testing pigments to ensure colour stability during firing. Although pigments are derived from stable metal oxides, their final colours can vary depending on firing temperature, duration and interactions with the enamel base, making precise testing essential before application. A white enamel base was first applied to the solid white gold dial to create a smooth ground. The image was then built up in multiple layers, each one painted with an ultra-fine brush and fired at over 800 degrees Celsius. Several layers of translucent enamel were added to protect the painting and enhance depth. Each firing required tight temperature control to prevent defects such as cracking, bubbles or colour variation.

Les Cabinotiers Tribute To The Tour De L’île – Grand Feu Miniature Enamelling

Tech Specs: Les Cabinotiers Tribute To The Tour De L’île – Grand Feu Miniature Enamelling

Reference: 2400C/000P-418C
Movement: Self-winding Calibre 2460; 40 hours power reserve, 4Hz or 28,800vph
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: 40mm x 9.42mm; Platinum 950; water resistant to 30m
Dial: 18K white gold, hand-crafted Grand Feu enamel with miniature-painting technique, depicting the Tour de l’Île in Geneva
Strap: Brown Mississippiensis alligator leather, square scales, tone-on-tone stitching
Availability: Pièce unique

The second piece, also cased in platinum, combines hand-executed guilloché with Grand Feu enamel. The guilloché work is most extraordinary. It is a fusion of mechanical engraving and artistic rendering. Multiple guilloché patterns were used to distinguish different architectural elements and create depth. This shift from abstraction to representation created a number of technical challenges. Standard pattern bars and cams, which control the movement of the workpiece, are made to repeat predictable geometric shapes. But in this case, entirely new patterns had to be fabricated to allow the artisan to depict specific architectural forms and perspective. Most of the engraving was executed with a straight-line engine which is generally more demanding and exceptionally so in this case. As if that weren’t enough, the Tour de l’Île is depicted in miniature Grand Feu enamel, and the entire dial required no less than 56 hours of work.

Les Cabinotiers Tribute To The Tour De L’île – Figurative Guilloché And Grand Feu Miniature Enamelling

Tech Specs: Les Cabinotiers Tribute To The Tour De L’île – Figurative Guilloché And Grand Feu Miniature Enamelling

Reference: 2400C/000P-420C
Movement: Self-winding Calibre 2460; 40 hours power reserve, 4Hz or 28,800vph
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: 40mm x 9.42mm; Platinum 950; water resistant to 30m
Dial: 18K 3N yellow gold, sandblasted, hand guilloché, hand-crafted Grand Feu enamel with miniature-painting technique, depicting the Tour de l’Île in Geneva
Strap: Brown Mississippiensis alligator leather, square scales, tone-on-tone stitching
Availability: Pièce unique

The third watch, in pink gold, is rendered with exceptional detail using freehand engraving. The engraver begins with a hand-drawn sketch, then works directly on the metal surface, sculpting the design in bas-relief. Rather than cutting lines into the metal, material is removed from around the motif, allowing the subject to emerge in low relief. This approach requires absolute control, especially at the scale of a dial, where every line must serve both perspective and depth. Each architectural element is carved and finished to reflect light differently. Rooftops are polished to catch light, while areas like windows and trees are darkened through chiselling. A satin finish is applied selectively to create atmosphere, giving clouds and sky an almost tangible presence. The engraving manages to build visual hierarchy and depth into a space no more than a millimetre thick, which demanded more than 140 hours work in total.

Les Cabinotiers Tribute To The Tour De L’île – Engraving

Tech Specs: Les Cabinotiers Tribute To The Tour De L’île – Engraving

Reference: 2400C/000R-412C
Movement: Self-winding Calibre 2460; 40 hours power reserve, 4Hz or 28,800vph
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: 40mm x 9.42mm; 18K 5N pink gold; water resistant to 30m
Dial: 18K 5N pink gold, hand-engraved with the bas-relief technique, depicting the Tour de l’Île in Geneva
Strap: Brown Mississippiensis alligator leather, square scales, tone-on-tone stitching
Availability: Pièce unique