The luxury Citizen Premier category welcomes three new additions this fall — one Series8 880 GMT and two new Series8 890 models bolster an already impressive lineup of mechanical timepieces honoring Japanese artisans, craftsmanship, and the environments in which they are created.

Japanese heritage, architecture, and design inspire and inform the very essence of these watches. These new Citizen releases go even further, taking cues from the play of light and dark on the buildings within Japanese cities, often extolled as some of the most advanced and forward thinking on the planet. As such, it seems only fitting that one of these newest releases features one of horology’s most urbane complications.

There is a general consensus among serious watch collectors that one style of watch, of which there is still a troubling dearth, is the True (or Traveller) GMT, so it is pleasing to see Citizen, one of the globe’s largest and therefore most influential makers, continue to address this need.

Citizen Series8 880 GMT, reference NB6035-55H

View of the Caliber 9054 from the sapphire crystal caseback

There is no shortage of GMT watches. Far from it. This elegant, worldly complication is one of the most common. After adding a date, many watchmakers will turn their attentions to a second timezone. What is less often discussed, however, is how that second time zone functions and for whom those functions make most sense.

Broadly speaking, there are two types of mechanical GMTs on the market: the “Caller” (or “Office”) GMT, and the “Traveller” (or “True”). The difference comes down to which hand (the 24-hour GMT hand or the hour hand itself) is able to be set independently from the rest of the time-telling indicators.

A Caller GMT (so named because it is most suitable for someone who spends most of their time in one timezone but frequently calls or interacts with someone/something in another. For these workers, having an independently adjustable GMT hand is ideal because they want their home time to be the most visible thing on the dial (and thus indicated by the normal hour and minute hands).

A Traveller GMT, however, works differently. Instead of the 24-hour GMT hand being able to be set independently, in this instance, it is the hour hand that can be advanced or retreated in one-hour increments. This suits people who frequently move through time zones and want to be reminded of their static home time for staying in touch with loved ones back at base. As they move through timezones, a quick spin of the crown or push of a pusher can advance the hour hand so that the watch displays local time via the main hour and minute hands. This function is incredibly useful and desirable for frequent globetrotters, and Citizen is proud to present it in the new Series8 880 GMT The Seasons Winter model that is just as aesthetically suitable for the modern business traveller as it is functionally appropriate.

The Citizen Series8 880 GMT is limited to 1,600 pieces worldwide

The 880 “Traveler” GMT, reference NB6035-55H, is limited to 1,600 pieces worldwide. It captures the stillness of snowfall and the glow of urban lights, in its gray stainless steel 41mm case and bracelet evoke the evening sky, while gold and white accents suggest flickering streetlights and snow-dusted streets.

Meanwhile, only 1,200 examples will be made of the 890 City Lights Limited Edition (reference NB6062-52P). This 42.6mm gold-tone stainless steel model features a textured dial that reflects the rhythm of the city after dark and is inspired by the geometric brilliance of high-rise lights against the night.

1,200 pieces of the 890 New Dawn Limited Edition (reference NB6060-58H) are also available.

In contrast to the NB6062-52P, this model is a tribute to the city awakening with first light. The 42.6mm stainless steel variation features a shining silver geometric dial evoking the shadows of clustered buildings, while gold accents trace the horizon, symbolizing the break of day.

Tribute to the city after dark

In addition to the complications of the Series8 880 GMT timepieces, the Series8 890 family of watches offer sporty styling, complex five-piece construction, H-link bracelets and finely executed finishing. In addition to the anti-magnetic properties of the watches, the 890 timepieces provide a power reserve of 42 hours and an internal bi-directional rotating bezel designed to meet any moment. For added peace of mind, the Series8 880 GMT is water resistant to 100 meters and the 890 is water resistant to 200 meters, far more than you’d expect to need while border hopping, but reassuring to have in your locker if needed.

Citizen Series8 880 GMT and Series8 890

Perhaps even more relevant, given the inspiration of these models, is the superior magnetic resistance displayed by the mechanical movements. Citizen claims this allows these watches to continue performing within timekeeping tolerances (+20/-10 seconds per day), even when placed within 1 cm of magnetic field emitting devices (such as tablets and smartphones). This is all the more impressive in light of the fact that both the Series8 880 GMT and 890s boast sapphire display case backs. The Series8 880 GMT uses the in-house Caliber 9054, while the 890 timepieces use the automatic Caliber 9051.

The new models are currently available online at citizenwatch.com.