Not many people would be able to tell you exactly how big a 6,225-carat emerald is. Then again, not many people would have had the opportunity to see such a stone, hold it in hand, and take in all of its glorious viridescence — not even among the uppermost echelons of Europe’s top jewelers. Yet this was a distinct privilege that came to Chopard Co-President Caroline Scheufele in 2022 when she made the decision to acquire one of the biggest rough emeralds ever to emerge from the famed Kagem mine in Zambia.

Named the Insofu Emerald, its 6,225-carat weight translates to a whopping 1.22 kilograms and its vibrant, crystalline green hue was particularly remarkable, rated exceptional by Gemfields.

The story of the Insofu Collection began in 2022 in Paris, when Caroline Scheufele unveiled an astonishing 6,225-carat rough emerald, unearthed in Zambia

A notable force in the high jewelry universe, Scheufele was no stranger to rare and beautiful gemstones. But something compelled her to delve beyond the perfectly cut and polished specimens sitting prettily by the dozen at gem and mineral shows like Tucson, JCK or Bangkok Gem and Jewelry. Working with finished stones was the industry norm — and Chopard habitually does — only, Scheufele has always been a wanderer.

Guided by her natural curiosity and a desire to tell the full story, she felt drawn to rough stones because working with roughs allow stone and jeweler to jointly determine the outcome.

The Insofu emerald, meaning “elephant” in the local Bemba language, is a nod to its trunk-like shape and unprecedented colossal size

That was a reward well worth the investment, effort and, of course, risk. After Scheufele successfully acquired the Insofu Emerald in 2022, she immediately began working on the stone, carving its future within the hallowed halls of the Chopard manufacture.

Why only one gem cutter was trusted with the Insofu Emerald

“I’ve known of the stone,” says Scheufele at the ultra exclusive Chopard-owned hotel, 1 Place Vendôme. “It was hidden in a safe for years by one of my gemstone partners. I asked them if I could see it, since they always talk about it but have never shown it. They’ve also said they don’t ever want to cut it. So I had to convince them to sell it to me.”

Chopard brought the world’s most skilled gem-cutters from India to its Geneva workshops to meticulously study the gem and propose cuts and facets to best reveal its internal inclusions, known as “jardin”

Funnily enough, Scheufele adds, the Insofu Emerald stayed another two years in the safe after it changed hands.

Although with such a stone, you never act hastily. Scheufele spent this entire time researching, contemplating her next move. Incidentally, this was not her first rodeo with rough stones. In 2015, Chopard acquired a 342-carat Queen of Kalahari flawless rough diamond, which transformed into the Garden of Kalahari collection which was Chopard’s most valuable high jewelry collection at that point in time. Yet the Insofu Emerald presented a completely new challenge for Scheufele and her team.

Gemfields is the mining company that unearthed Insofu in the Kagem mine in Zambia

Unlike diamonds, which can be cut extremely precisely and with a lot of pre-planning, colored stones such as emeralds rely almost entirely on the stonecutter’s touch. Nobody would be able to accurately predict what could come out of the Insofu Emerald, and that was one of the most nerve-wracking moments for Scheufele, who insisted on teaming up only with her preferred partner and no one else.

Spanning nearly a year, the cutting of the Insofu Emerald involved both expert gem cutters from India as well as Chopard’s ateliers in Geneva. “It was very fascinating to learn how they worked,” she recounts. “They were completely focused when handling the stone, all the while sitting on the floor.”

Ultimately, the Insofu gem yielded 850 carats of emeralds

Emeralds, being softer and more fragile than diamonds, present unique challenges during the cutting process. The Insofu Emerald, with its colossal size and intricate internal structure, required careful planning and execution to preserve its integrity and reveal its full potential.

Inside Chopard’s Insofu High Jewelry Collection

Once the cutting was complete, Chopard yielded a total of 850 carats of gem-quality emeralds in a variety of shapes, sizes and cuts, none of which were predetermined. Much to Scheufele’s delight, though, were a number of heart-shaped stones among the lot. “That was the one and only thing I’ve requested,” she concedes, “I would really love to have some hearts. Because everybody knows that I love hearts.” And after a three-year wait — two if you count the pre-launch parure collaboratively designed with Chopard official brand ambassador Julia Roberts — Chopard’s much anticipated Insofu Collection was finally complete.

(On model, left): Earrings in ethical 18K white gold set with two pear-shaped emeralds (21.69 cts), and fancy-cut diamonds totaling 20.74 carats; ring in ethical 18K white gold and platinum set with an 11.43-carat emerald-cut emerald and brilliant-cut diamonds (1.80 ct) and emeralds (0.71 ct). (On model, right): A suite of four necklaces comprising a pearl sautoir; a chain in ethical 18-carat white gold featuring pearls, emerald- and brilliant-cut emeralds (totaling 2.43 carats) as well as diamond brilliants (4.66 cts); and a choker in ethical 18K white gold set with a central emerald-cut emerald (2.88 cts) and brilliant-cut diamonds (6.88 cts)

The Insofu Emerald collection comprises 15 exquisite pieces — five pairs of earrings, four necklaces, three rings, a bracelet and a jewellery watch

This high jewelry collection comprises 15 exquisite pieces, each reflecting a different facet of the rough stone while embracing the Chopard manufacture’s distinctive style and identity as envisioned by Scheufele. In all there were five pairs of earrings, four necklaces, three rings, a bracelet and a jewelry watch. Scheufele and her creative team drew influences from the organic and fluid lines of nature, abstract forms and the rigorous elegance of Art Deco, producing a diverse aesthetic range.

Jewelry enthusiasts would immediately recognize the appearance of Precious Lace, which is one of Chopard’s hallmarks, as well as the use of colored titanium in expressing the maison’s modern, innovative approach to jewelry design.

Scheufele has chosen to accompany this collection with five matching gowns showcasing the craftsmanship of Caroline’s Couture

Nature also writs large in the collection, along with the geometrical Art Deco style which was favorably paired with the emerald-cut stones.

Fittingly, the star piece of the collection is an elephant-shaped pendant — an affectionate tribute to the rough Insofu Emerald, which derived its name from the word “elephant” in the local Bemba language. Scheufele is known for her eternal love of animals and here the elephant is portrayed standing tall and proud, its trunk raised upward as if in triumph. Outlined in delicate diamonds, it is complete with emeralds in a variety of different shapes and sizes, intended to be worn on an elegant extra-long chain interspersed with emeralds and diamonds.

The Insofu emerald, meaning “elephant” in the local Bemba language, is a nod to its trunk-like shape and unprecedented colossal size

Scheufele wears the Elephant Pendant in ethical 18K white gold and platinum set with pear-shaped (24.97 cts), oval-shaped (21.75 cts) and brilliant-cut (0.46 ct) emeralds, as well as diamond brilliants (2.04 cts)

“We had many different sketches and ideas. In the beginning we also had just the face of the elephant, but then I said no, we must be able to see the whole elephant. I wanted to have a view of the elephant that was a little bit three-dimensional, and also more sleek,” Scheufele explains.

Ultimately, though, it all came back to the original rough Insofu Emerald. It dictated the cuts and inspired the designs.

Part of the profits from each piece sold in the collection will be donated to support Elephant Family, an international NGO dedicated to protecting the Asian elephant from extinction in the wild

It set Scheufele and the Chopard manufacture on a unique journey to tell one of the most beautiful stories in modern jewelry making as they helped shape its destiny.

“In every stone lies a story, and my role is to listen and honor the natural magic they carry as treasures from the Earth,” says Caroline Scheufele. “The Insofu Collection reflects our belief that true beauty results from a genuine commitment to society and ethical practices.”