Cartier, it should come as no surprise to anyone, is a remarkable brand. Every few weeks, I find myself in a comments section or WhatsApp chat discussing how Cartier just might be the greatest luxury brand in the world. Note, I said “luxury”, not “luxury watch” — but that’s a much bigger conversation. For now, let’s focus on why you can make a strong argument that the best Cartier watch holds its own in an exceptionally competitive industry.

Paris, London, New York. Three founding boutiques. Three legendary locations that saw Cartier open up to the world and lay the foundations for what was to become one of the finest adventures of the century (Image: Cartier)

Striking the balance between accessibility and luxury

Like any good luxury brand worth its salt, Cartier has a select coterie of watches that are virtually impossible to acquire. Anything from the Prive Collection, any limited edition pieces and anything Crash-shaped requires more connections than a Hollywood producer and the sort of pull normally required for hauling Marlin. This type of exclusivity is par for the course for any luxury brand and always has been. What sets Cartier apart from other watchmakers with equally desirable products is that when you walk into a Cartier boutique, you can actually buy a watch. Perhaps not the in-demand coloured lacquer Santos-Dumont models, but a regular steel version? Sure, that’s achievable. And while other sought-after brands may offer alternatives, the experience isn’t quite the same. If you walk into Patek Philippe looking for an Aquanaut, you might walk out with a Calatrava, but that’s not really the same thing. Likewise, at Rolex, the main similarity between a Daytona and a Cellini is the name on the dial.

With Cartier, however, whether you’re after an entry-level piece or what many consider the best Cartier watch, you’re more likely to find a timepiece that aligns with your tastes — without navigating endless waitlists or exclusivity games.

The Cartier Crash Tigrée with enameled stripes

Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor in stainless steel

To extend the Santos-Dumont argument, the large steel Santos-Dumont in quartz isn’t the same as the blue peacock model in rose gold, but it’s the same design and feel on the wrist for — it must be said — a fraction of the price.

Santos-Dumont blue peacock in rose gold

A Cartier icon at every level

Cartier’s broad appeal, from the perfect entry-level piece to the ultimate grail, is due in no small part to the incredible longevity of its product catalog. While the brand isn’t afraid to introduce new designs and collections, its core models have remained fundamentally unchanged from a design perspective for over a century. Just think about that for a few seconds. Louis Cartier designed the Santos and the Tank when horses were still the dominant mode of transportation for most people, and the design has changed very little in the generations since. More than that, a freshly minted watch fan can buy that same design for a few thousand dollars. Whether you’re searching for an everyday classic or the best Cartier watch to elevate your collection, few brands manage to encapsulate this level of watchmaking history and prestige in such an attainable package. Cartier — in one of the rare examples of the word being meaningful — makes icons.

What really makes their icons special is the fact that they don’t gatekeep them. You can get a quartz or entry-level automatic Tank, or you can spend more and get it with a fancier dial, a gold case or some diamonds, or, spend more again, and you can own an example with a dial crafted by some of the finest metiers d’art craftspeople working in the world. This alone is impressive, but the fact that the quartz Tank Must in steel that you can pick up for a few thousand dollars looks and feels as good as the more exclusive models is even more commendable.

Tank Louis Cartier

(From left) Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise with an open-worked dial in platinum, yellow gold and diamond-set platinum

While there are plenty of factors at play in the brand’s broad appeal, I think the universality of Cartier’s appeal comes from its enduring design. The core collection never dates, beyond the occasional movement upgrade or subtle ergonomic tweak. Cartier knows they make icons, and they’re smart enough to leave them alone.

Brand power without the high price tag

This combination of genuine horological icons that are actually attainable is immensely powerful. Cartier has expertly leveraged its immense history, from tactically reviving cult classic models to supporting cultural institutions to explore the Maison’s role in history and its host of famous customers to great effect. On top of this, the fact that watches are not the only thing Cartier does is an immense boon: the brand’s diversification allows them to keep their designs consistent, pure, and attainable. And, as recent years have shown us, the approach has paid off in spades. Cartier’s brand power as a watchmaker has only trended upwards, while its carefully managed product availability and pricing have helped maintain accessibility. Whether you’re looking for an everyday timepiece or the best Cartier watch to elevate your collection, the brand continues to offer a balance of desirability and attainability that many of its peers struggle to match.